Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
